India Journal #1: Arrival

Treading along in this dreamlike, illusory realm,
Without looking for the traces I may have left;
A cuckoo's song beckons me to return home;
Hearing this, I tilt my head to see
Who has told me to turn back;
But do not ask me where I am going,
As I travel in this limitless world,
Where every step I take is my home.
Dogen
(trans by Steven Heine)

Our first day in Jaipur has been a sensory journey: monkeys perched on terraces, cows wandering down streets, and street vendors calling out their daily offerings of vegetables, eggs, bread and oil. For me, it's been quite a culture shock, somewhat cushioned by our previous two days in Mumbai, which makes Jaipur almost feel like a day in the countryside. My first ride in an autorickshaw in Jaipur traffic was quite the thrill. 
 
Upayadhi, now on her fourth visit to India, moves through this environment with more comfort and familiarity. Having spent most of last summer in Jaipur, she's mastered the local ways (and apps!) that simplify daily life, and her Hindi continues to improve. She'll resume her language studies tomorrow morning. 
 
We feel fortunate to escape Chicago's plummeting temperatures. Jaipur greets us with mid-Spring weather: warm days and cool nights. We're grateful to stay connected with you while away, and we are particularly thankful to Upayadhi's scholarship grant which is supporting a good portion of our journey. We are staying with a lovely family near the University of Rajasthan, on the top floor of their multi-generational home. Today we learned how to share space with the local (and mostly peaceful) monkeys who like visit our veranda. We also met Coco, the family's Golden Retriever. 
 
Though I've traveled extensively, India presents a unique tapestry of contrasts I've never encountered in a single place: stark disparities between poverty and wealth, as well as highly traditional systems alongside high-tech innovations that far outpace the US. The truly ancient coexists with the ultra-modern. 
 
I wish I could say I've fully embraced Dogen's wisdom – that every step I take here is "my home." I'm not there yet, but we shall see. I am trying to pace myself and take it all in. It's an adventure.